Back to the beautiful Basque Country
/The Basque Country is a secret land of rugged mountains and wild beaches on the Atlantic coast. The Basques say asko dakin/k/zu, bizitzen baldin badakin/k/zu – "you know much, if you know how to live". Basque is the oldest, weirdest language in Europe and no-one knows where it comes from, so it's just as well they also speak Spanish on the Spanish side and French on the French side. And they sing! They have fantastic male choirs who had no idea that Kiwis also sing at the drop of a glass of txakoli (sparkling white Basque wine). We sang in the bus, sang in restaurants and sang by the sea. And we ate and cooked! My first Basque tour in 4 years was made very wonderful by a perfect group who jumped joyfully into everything right from day one. The stylish city of San Sebastian has the most starred restaurants in Europe, the best pintxos (tapas) and the loudest guides – our Eli (who's been with me since my very first tour in 2012) outdid herself with shady jokes and dodgy demonstrations of how to clean squid. I deeply believe that not one gastronomad truly understood how to empty and open out a fresh anchovy till they met me. On the French side in the sparkling fishing village of St-Jean-de Luz we went bonkers over stripes, espadrilles, Bayonne ham, Espelette pepper, chocolate and fish fish fish. Our lovely French guide Gabrielle shared stories of her family and Basque upbringing and everything that makes these staunch people so proud of their land, cuisine and culture.
This is a very popular tour and 2024 is already half-full... full details, enquiries and booking forms for 2024 are HERE.
Tours in 2024
Now I know 2024 seems miles away, but it travel terms it's just around the corner. The best flights from NZ to Europe are usually released in Spring (NZ)... so start planning now.
India – 4 – 13 March 2024 – TOUR FULL
India – 18 – 27 March 2024 – 3 places left!
Marrakech – 5 –11 May 2024 – TOUR FULL
Marrakech – 13 – 19 May 2024 – tour half full
Basque – 1 – 7 June 2024 – tour half full
Uzès – 5 – 11 July 2024
Puglia – 1 – 7 September 2024 – tour half full
Portugal – 15 – 21 September 2024
Tarta de queso (Basque cheesecake)
Here's the famous Basque cheesecake – simple, rewarding and burnt on top. Serves 6.
500g cream cheese
4 medium eggs
200 grams sugar
250ml cream
1 tbsp flour
21cm springform cake tin with removable base
Preheat oven to 220° C (approximately 430° F). Place a baking tray in the oven to heat up.
Break eggs into large bowl and beat well with an electric beater. Add cream cheese and beat in. Add the cream and beat in. Add the sugar and beat in. Finally add the flour.
Line the cake tin with baking paper and grease and flour the sides.
Pour mixture into the tin and place onto the baking tray in the oven. Bake for 45 minutes, more or less. The colour will be your best indication of done-ness. You want the top of the cake to caramelise, so you are looking for the surface of the cake to turn a very dark brown colour - almost burnt. When you shake the tin, the cake will appear wobbly but after 45 mins it will definitely be cooked.
Remove cake from oven and leave to cool in the tin. Remove and serve caramelised side up. Serve with fresh berries or fruit.
This recipe is very good doubled so that it is twice as high, in which case you would line the sides with baking paper that came up a few inches above the tin.
I will be in my home in Uzès in the South of France till the end of the French summer. Come and join me for a half day cooking class – I teach on market days, (Wednesday and Saturday). Think salt cod, rivers of olive oil, wild thyme, gigantic perfumed tomatoes, oceans of rosé and punnets of Pelardon goat cheese. We shop for an hour, cook for three then eat and drink in my AIR CONDITIONED kitchen. Get in touch for a class if you're passing through HERE.
A bientot,
Peta