Peta Unplugged: Culinary Adventures in the South of France

Episode 3 — Recipes

Episode 3
Episode 3

Brandade de Morue (Salt Cod Purée)

Brandade is the most delicious dish when properly prepared. It comes originally from Nimes in the south of France. Purists say it shouldn’t have potatoes or garlic in it but this has become the common method over the years because people further north found the strong salt cod and olive oil too powerful a punch to swallow. In the old days, bargees used to tow the cod under water to desalt it (so it got to taste of the filthy canal - yum).

SERVES 8 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A MAIN

  • 500g thick, white salt cod
  • 300g floury potatoes like Agria, peeled
  • bay leaf and a few sprigs of thyme
  • ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • ¾ cup milk
  • 3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
  • lemons
  • sliced bread, fried or toasted, rubbed with garlic and cut into triangles
  1. Boil the potatoes in salted water till soft, drain well and push through a ricer or sieve immediately.
  2. Soak morue in frequently changed water for 24 hrs. Poach it in milk, water, thyme and bay leaf for 10 mins then flake, discarding any bones and skin.
  3. Heat the oil in a medium sized saucepan. Scald the milk in a jug in the microwave. Add the flaked fish and garlic to the oil over a medium heat and beat vigourously with a wooden spoon till smooth.
  4. Now add the potatoes and the milk alternately tablespoon by tablespoon, beating all the time. You may need to add more oil and milk to obtain an emulsified purée. The end result should be white, smooth and fluffy. Taste the brandade and add pepper, nutmeg and a squeeze of lemon juice to taste.

To serve, pile the brandade up in a heated bowl, grind some pepper over it, a squeeze of lemon juice and a drizzle of oil. Surround with lemon wedges and fried triangles. Brandade is eaten warm on its own, either as an entrée or a main.

Thon Mi-cuit au Sel Fumé, Salade du Sud (Half Cooked Tuna in Smoked Salt with Southern Salad)

SERVES 6

  • For the salad
  • 100g dry coco beans or 200g fresh
  • a bay leaf
  • a sprig of thyme
  • one capsicum, any colour you like
  • 200g cherry tomatoes
  • 50g pine nuts
  • 100g black olives
  • ½ preserved lemon
  • ½ cup chopped flat leaf parsley
  • 3 medium courgettes, finely sliced lengthwise
  • extra virgin olive oil
  • For the vinaigrette
  • ⅓ cup lemon juice
  • ½ tsp Dijon mustard
  • ½ tsp sea salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • ⅔ cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tbsp finely chopped chives
  1. Soak the beans in plenty of water overnight then boil in fresh water with the bay leaf and thyme for half an hour. Add salt at the last minute. Drain.
  2. Make up the vinaigrette by whisking together the first 4 ingredients then gradually add the oil. Stir in the chives.
  3. Blacken capsicum, remove skin, core and dice finely.
  4. Halve or quarter tomatoes depending on how big they are.
  5. Fry the pine nuts in a little oil till golden.
  6. Stone and chop olives.
  7. Discard flesh from preserved lemon and chop skin finely.
  8. Toss all the salad ingredients together.
  9. Heat a little oil in a fry pan and quickly sauté the courgettes on a high heat.
  • For the tuna
  • 6 × 180g tuna steaks cut 2.5cm thick
  • smoked salt
  1. Remove fish from fridge half an hour before cooking. Heat a heavy based fry pan to hot, sprinkle with smoked salt and place tuna on top. Cook for exactly six minutes on one side and remove from the pan.

To Serve: Place some courgettes on a plate, top with some salad and drench with a few tbsp of the vinaigrette. Place tuna on top.